Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Organic Garden "Tea'





ORGANIC &  COMPOST 'TEAS'

 

Most gardeners know the advantages of adding compost to the soil when planting. We mix the ingredients, heat up, turn and tend the pile until we are rewarded with the beautiful rich compost, ‘garden gold’.

 
 

At this time of year we can still take advantage of this valuable amendment by making a bucket of ‘compost tea’. This can be as simple as soaking a few handfuls of compost in a bucket of water for a few days and then using it to fertilize your plants. Stir the tea once a day to blend. Teas are organic so they are healthy for the plants, the soil, and most importantly you, though we shouldn't drink it.


 

 Compost tea can be strained and sprayed onto your plants. This is a practice used by many organic gardeners.

Dried cow manure can also be used to make ‘manure tea’.  Before commercial fertilizers, it was common for New Jersey gardeners to use this on tomatoes. When I make this tea, I put a handful of the dried cow manure in an old sock  knotted at the end. When the tea is done, I toss the sock away and manure tea is ready to use. Feed this into the soil and avoid splashing it on the leaves to prevent burning.
When applying any fertilizer, lightly soak the ground first. This will avoid run off and permit the fertilizer to easily move deep in the soil to the root system of your plants.
 

To prevent a breeding ground for mosquitoes brew these teas for only a few days and avoid letting them stand for very long. Once I got too busy so I had to knock over the bucket.  Better than hosting a mosquito breeding ground. If you can see mosquito 'swimmers' on top.....use it or lose it.*


For gardeners with little time or space to blend your own teas 'Liquid Seaweed' is an alterative organic you can easily purchase in most garden centers. This is sold commercially as a liquid concentrate which is then diluted in your water bucket. You can also put this in a spray bottle to use on the leaves. 

*Remember to clean your bird bath twice a week to avoid mosquitos from breeding in it.



Happy Gardening,
James



 

 


Saturday, May 10, 2014

What happened to Impatiens?


IMPATIENS PROBLEM /  DOWNEY MILDEW DISEASE

IMPATIENS WALLERIANA

In mid-summer of 2012 gardeners across New Jersey helplessly watched as our beloved impatiens, the colorful backbone of shade gardens, weakened, turned yellow, dropped their leaves, wilted and died.
By October it was confirmed that DOWNY MILDEW disease had been confirmed in our landscapes. From Massachusetts to Florida; New Jersey to Missouri and even Southern California impatiens failed. By the end of last year 32 states reported Downey Mildew.

This disease, known as a "water mold" (formerly called a fungus)  was quickly spread by  two types of spores.  One air borne with a short life span and the other, incased in water which can remain viable for years. Unfortunately these spores overwinter in garden bed soil . Many countries in Europe have not been unable to plant impatiens for many years.

IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED WE PLANT IMPATIENS AGAIN THIS YEAR.

A few garden centers and big chain stores plan to grow and sell impatiens this year. They were able in past years to control the disease with fungicides in greenhouses and plan to do so again.  This protection wears off quickly once moved into our gardens where the plants lack a controlled environment. Even potted plants are not safe from the air-born spores. The best we can hope for is a 30% success rate.  Sadly this collapse takes place at the peak of the season when there is no time to replace them.

 

The first sign of Downy mildew is a white film on the underside of the leaves. Within days total collapse of the plant will occur.  Immediately remove the plant. Put it in a sealed plastic bag and place it in the trash; not the compost bin.

 

Cooperative Extensions suggest folks find an alternative to plant in their garden. New Guinea impatiens and Sunpatiens  (Hybrid of regular & New Guinea) have a higher resistance to downy  mildew.

Coleus with colorful leaves
 


Begonias


or Caladium would be a few good choices. 
 
 
 


Beautiful new Hosta hybrids can add light to shaded areas that will last for years to come.

 

Although this is very disappointing to gardeners, this is a disaster to landscapers, greenhouses and seed companies.  Researchers across the country and the Department of Agriculture are working to solve this problem as quickly as possible.
When we planted impatiens we never thought we were part of a multi-million dollar industry, but we were.

Happy Gardening,
James



 

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Poison Ivy Identification






'Leaves of three, let it be'

 

 


Poison ivy is a toxic vine which brings misery to millions of people that come in contact with it every year. Although we are most concerned during the summer, every part of this plant is toxic at all times of the year. Even bare stalks are poisonous in the dead of winter. Therefore if you have poison ivy in your area it is important to safely eradicate it.

Native to the eastern United States the vines can be found everywhere in local parks and forest, rambling though bushes and shrubs or climbing trees in the best of gardens. It grows at the seashore where the salt water spray kills most other plants.

 


In the spring small bright red to reddish purple leaflets appear first. These leaflets turn a glossy green by mid-summer. Each leaf consists of three leaflets that are two to four inches long.

 As summer turns to autumn this vine is often the first plant to change color. Bright orange, red and yellow leaves make poison ivy easy to spot.  These bright colors makes September a perfect time to scan your property and area for Poison Ivy. 
 
 

A mature vine is easy to ID at any time of the year. Often as thick as a mans wrist, the vines are covered with thousands of tiny hairs with allows it to cling to trees, growing as high as 50 to 75 feet. Look but don't touch as this will also cause a nasty rash. 
 
 

Poison ivy has both male and female plants. The females produce clusters of white berries that hold on the vine throughout winter and are spread by birds who ingest the fruit.  

 


Do not burn poison ivy to control it. The fumes are very toxic when inhaled into your lungs.  This is a danger to firemen who might breath the fumes in heavily infested areas like beach towns.

 If you believe you do have poison ivy keep a safe distance. Contact your local County Cooperative Extension for information on control and eradication. See Rutgers fact sheet  (#1019)
'Poison Ivy and Its Control'* for additional information. 

 *Whenever using chemical control take proper precautions. Wear protection, cover your nose and eyes and follow the directions on the label.

 

Monday, April 21, 2014

Proper Watering for Healthy Plants



ALL PLANTS DEPEND ON WATER
 

 
 

"Nothing of any consequence to a living plant happens in dry soil. Roots don't grow there. No nutrients pass from dry soil to plant. None of the symbiotic soil dwellers the plants need live there. Dry soil isn't part of the plant's vital ecology. It just doesn't count." -Edward C. Smith, The Vegetable Gardener's Container Bible.
Even Cactus which like it dry, flower and sets seed after seasonal rainfalls. This is the ultimate goal for all life on Earth, to reproduce and flourish.

 

Unfortunately many plant disease and problems are caused by poor watering practices. As a general rule in our area of New Jersey most plants, including lawns, require one inch of water per week. An inexpensive or homemade rain meter can save time and help keep your water bills down.

 

This is especially true for lawns. 'Damp feet' at night is a major cause for many lawn diseases. An ideal water practice for lawns is one inch of water once a week, or a half inch twice a week, early in the morning. This encourages the roots to grow down deep and gives the lawn hours of sun to dry off before nightfall.

Containers dry out faster than plants in the ground, so they need more attention. There are a few things you can do to make sure your potted plants are getting the best watering you can give them. First water the soil, with few exceptions, plants don't like wet leaves. Water your pots twice, five minutes apart. The first watering will dampen the top layer of soil. Five minutes later give them a second watering. This second watering will work its way deep into the pot where the root system can absorb it.

A handy watering tool is the 'Water-wand', a soaker nozzle at the end of a long metal tube. A stream of water is easily released where the plants need it most; soil level and close to the roots. These can be found at your local garden center.

 
Remember water wands are designed to reach the soil while keeping the leaves dry, so simply holding it over the plants defeats the propose.
 

One of he most common complaints I hear is I worked hard on my garden but never got to enjoy it.
Try to make time to sit and enjoy your garden as often as possible. Enjoying a morning cup of coffee there is only a few steps away.


 

Happy Gardening ,
Jamie

 

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Pansies / Princess of the Spring Garden

 

PANSIES & VIOLETS
 
 

After a long and brutal winter,  garden centers and stores are once again full of brightly colored pansies.  These delightful small spring plants come in a wide range of colors, blends and 'faces' on the same flower.  White, yellow, blue, purple, orange and mixed. Choosing your pansies can be a great deal of fun.  A pot of pansies by your door is a wonderful welcome to family, friends and yourself arriving at your home. Pansies also make a wonderful hostess gift.
 
 

The very popular 'Johnny Jump Up' has a small yellow and purple flower and reseeds itself successfully in our area.

Pansies are members of the large family named 'VIOLA'.  The state flower of New Jersey, the tiny 'Common Blue Violet' can be seen blooming in our local parks and lawns in mid-spring.  
Here it is drawn the with our state bird, The American Goldfinch.
 

For us, pansies are a spring flower which will bloom for three months until the heat of summer forces them to fade away. In warmer climates,  pansies can be planted in the autumn and they will bloom though the winter and spring, then fade when the summer heat is too much for them. When pansies wilt in early June, I replant the pot with summer annuals. Remember that potted plants do need more watering than flowers planted in the ground. Also match your plants with the amount of sunlight it will receive. In the garden plant violets in ordinary well drained soil, out of direct afternoon sun and keep the soil slightly moist.

To keep pansies blooming well, 'DEADHEAD' the spent blooms.  Once or twice a week pick off wilted flowers with your fingertips. This prevents the plants using energy to produce seeds and diverts it to create many more flowers. Pansies react great to this process, often blooming twice as many flowers.
 

Often pansies are sold root bound. This means the roots are overgrown in a tight knot at the bottom. When you take the pansy out of the cell pack you will find a white mass of tangled roots. This will prevent the plants from absorbing water and will stunt them.  Break the bottom of the root ball with your fingers or a knife before repotting to promote healthy growth. The plants will respond to this process better than you might think.  The basic practice should followed with all root bound plants.   

Please support our  local garden centers. They depend on our seasonal business and sell  the largest selections of plants, flowers and vegetables.    
                                                                                       



Happy Gardening,    James      

 



 

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Start with the soil

 

 


START WITH THE SOIL
 
 
Whether your goal is a plush green lawn or a large harvest of vegetables, soil fertility testing is the place to start.  It helps by determining a soil’s pH and need for lime and fertilizer.


 

WHY DOES SOIL pH MATTER?

Soil pH is a scale to measure how acidic or alkaline the soil is. Soil pH of 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and a pH above is alkaline.

Plants, vegetables and grass grow better, are healthier and produce more within their own pH range.  The proper pH permits plants  to absorb minerals from the soil. Evergreens require an acidic pH around 4.5 while tomatoes need a pH of  7.0.

By knowing the plant nutrition needs of your lawn and gardens, you can prevent the over-application of fertilizers.


 
Separate soil samples will need to be taken from areas used to grow different types of plants.  For example, separate soil test kits should be used for lawn areas and vegetable garden areas. 
 
Samples from rhododendron, azalea, and other broadleaf evergreen areas should be kept separate from other shrub areas. Also sample separately areas that have previously received different lime or fertilizer treatments and areas that are noticeably different in plant or soil quality.


Soil test sampling kits are available in most states from you local county Cooperative Extensive Service, listed in the yellow pages.

Here in NJ the soil testing kits sold for a fee of $20 from most of Rutgers Cooperative Extension offices at the Garden Helpline offices.

In New Jersey, the Rutgers Soils Laboratory uses state-of-the-art instruments and methods of soil  analysis.  They suggest soil testing be repeated every 2–3years.

The best time to take a soil sample is before spring fertilization or after harvest in the fall or. Do not sample shortly after a lime, fertilizer, or manure application
or when the soil is excessively wet. For lawns, late summer sampling will prepare you for fall fertilization.

 
In Union County the office is at 300 North Ave East,  Westfield, NJ, on the 2nd floor. You can also purchase soil test kits by mail.
For more information contact the Union County Garden Helpline
at 908-654-9852.

Happy Gardening, James
 

 
Information from Rutgers Fact Sheet # 797  Soil Testing.
For a  comprehensive list of Rutgers Cooperative Extension publications visit www.rce.rutgers.edu

Friday, February 14, 2014

Repotting Houseplants


Repotting Houseplants

Although the ground is snow covered and spring seems far away, we gain three minutes of sunlight everyday and our houseplants have taken notice. Now is a good time to start planning repotting and spring care so you'll be ready when new growth begins.

Actively growing houseplants need repotting from time to time. Fast-growing plants may need repotting annually, while slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years. Repot only as needed during spring and summer while the plant is actively growing. Do not repot ailing or dormant plants or those beginning to flower.

When new growth starts in the spring, turn the potted plant upside down and remove the plant, if possible. A plant can be removed easily from its pot if the lip of the upside down container is knocked against any solid object. Hold your hand over the soil, straddling the plant between the fore- and middle-fingers, holding back the soil, and gently knock the rootball out of its present container. If roots are in a solid mass around the rootball, the plant needs to be repotted. A plant also needs to be repotted if roots are growing out of the drainage hole, or if the plant requires frequent watering or wilts shortly after watering.

Remove the plant from its pot and gently disturb the root system so that roots are not in a tight rootball. If the roots are too tight to loosen, score the rootball with a knife to loosen them.

Select a pot that is 1 or 2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot. When reusing a pot soak it in 10% bleach water first to discourage disease.

Place a small piece of broken clay pot over the drainage hole to prevent soil from washing out. Do not add a layer of clay pieces or rocks because this actually slows water movement through the pot. I use a used dryer sheet, which keeps the soil in while allowing water to drain out.

Place enough dry potting mix in the bottom of the pot so that the top of the rootball is within 1 inch of the container top. Do not add soil above the original level on the rootball. Fill around the rootball with mix. Do not pack the soil too firm or settle it; gently press the soil with your fingers. Water well so excess water drains out of the pot. Repeat many times, especially if the soil mix contains peat.

A few houseplants such as this Snake plant, (Sansevieria) thrive when they are pot bound. Simply remove the top inch of soil and replace with fresh potting soil every year to keep it happy.


 

*Information excerpted from Clemson University fact sheet, 'repotting houseplants'

Happy Gardening, James