Proper Watering for Healthy Plants

ALL PLANTS DEPEND ON WATER

 

 

 

"Nothing of any consequence to a living plant happens in dry soil. Roots don't grow there. No nutrients pass from dry soil to plant. None of the symbiotic soil dwellers the plants need live there. Dry soil isn't part of the plant's vital ecology. It just doesn't count." -Edward C. Smith, The Vegetable Gardener's Container Bible.

Even Cactus which like it dry, flower and sets seed after seasonal rainfalls. This is the ultimate goal for all life on Earth, to reproduce and flourish.

 

Unfortunately many plant disease and problems are caused by poor watering practices. As a general rule in our area of New Jersey most plants, including lawns, require one inch of water per week. An inexpensive or homemade rain meter can save time and help keep your water bills down.

 

This is especially true for lawns. 'Damp feet' at night is a major cause for many lawn diseases. An ideal water practice for lawns is one inch of water once a week, or a half inch twice a week, early in the morning. This encourages the roots to grow down deep and gives the lawn hours of sun to dry off before nightfall.

Containers dry out faster than plants in the ground, so they need more attention. There are a few things you can do to make sure your potted plants are getting the best watering you can give them. First water the soil, with few exceptions, plants don't like wet leaves. Water your pots twice, five minutes apart. The first watering will dampen the top layer of soil. Five minutes later give them a second watering. This second watering will work its way deep into the pot where the root system can absorb it.

A handy watering tool is the 'Water-wand', a soaker nozzle at the end of a long metal tube. A stream of water is easily released where the plants need it most; soil level and close to the roots. These can be found at your local garden center.

 

Remember water wands are designed to reach the soil while keeping the leaves dry, so simply holding it over the plants defeats the propose.

 

One of he most common complaints I hear is I worked hard on my garden but never got to enjoy it.
Try to make time to sit and enjoy your garden as often as possible. Enjoying a morning cup of coffee there is only a few steps away.

 

Happy Gardening ,
Jamie

 

Pansies / Princess of the Spring Garden

 

PANSIES & VIOLETS

 

 

After a long and brutal winter,  garden centers and stores are once again full of brightly colored pansies.  These delightful small spring plants come in a wide range of colors, blends and 'faces' on the same flower.  White, yellow, blue, purple, orange and mixed. Choosing your pansies can be a great deal of fun.  A pot of pansies by your door is a wonderful welcome to family, friends and yourself arriving at your home. Pansies also make a wonderful hostess gift.

 

 

The very popular 'Johnny Jump Up' has a small yellow and purple flower and reseeds itself successfully in our area.

Pansies are members of the large family named 'VIOLA'.  The state flower of New Jersey, the tiny 'Common Blue Violet' can be seen blooming in our local parks and lawns in mid-spring.  
Here it is drawn the with our state bird, The American Goldfinch.

 

For us, pansies are a spring flower which will bloom for three months until the heat of summer forces them to fade away. In warmer climates,  pansies can be planted in the autumn and they will bloom though the winter and spring, then fade when the summer heat is too much for them. When pansies wilt in early June, I replant the pot with summer annuals. Remember that potted plants do need more watering than flowers planted in the ground. Also match your plants with the amount of sunlight it will receive. In the garden plant violets in ordinary well drained soil, out of direct afternoon sun and keep the soil slightly moist.

To keep pansies blooming well, 'DEADHEAD' the spent blooms.  Once or twice a week pick off wilted flowers with your fingertips. This prevents the plants using energy to produce seeds and diverts it to create many more flowers. Pansies react great to this process, often blooming twice as many flowers.

 

Often pansies are sold root bound. This means the roots are overgrown in a tight knot at the bottom. When you take the pansy out of the cell pack you will find a white mass of tangled roots. This will prevent the plants from absorbing water and will stunt them.  Break the bottom of the root ball with your fingers or a knife before repotting to promote healthy growth. The plants will respond to this process better than you might think.  The basic practice should followed with all root bound plants.   

Please support our  local garden centers. They depend on our seasonal business and sell  the largest selections of plants, flowers and vegetables.    

                                                                                       

Happy Gardening,    James      

 

 

Start with the soil

 

 

START WITH THE SOIL

 

 

Whether your goal is a plush green lawn or a large harvest of vegetables, soil fertility testing is the place to start.  It helps by determining a soil’s pH and need for lime and fertilizer.

 

WHY DOES SOIL pH MATTER?

Soil pH is a scale to measure how acidic or alkaline the soil is. Soil pH of 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and a pH above is alkaline.

Plants, vegetables and grass grow better, are healthier and produce more within their own pH range.  The proper pH permits plants  to absorb minerals from the soil. Evergreens require an acidic pH around 4.5 while tomatoes need a pH of  7.0.

By knowing the plant nutrition needs of your lawn and gardens, you can prevent the over-application of fertilizers.

 

Separate soil samples will need to be taken from areas used to grow different types of plants.  For example, separate soil test kits should be used for lawn areas and vegetable garden areas. 

 

Samples from rhododendron, azalea, and other broadleaf evergreen areas should be kept separate from other shrub areas. Also sample separately areas that have previously received different lime or fertilizer treatments and areas that are noticeably different in plant or soil quality.

Soil test sampling kits are available in most states from you local county Cooperative Extensive Service, listed in the yellow pages.

Here in NJ the soil testing kits sold for a fee of $20 from most of Rutgers Cooperative Extension offices at the Garden Helpline offices.

In New Jersey, the Rutgers Soils Laboratory uses state-of-the-art instruments and methods of soil  analysis.  They suggest soil testing be repeated every 2–3years.

The best time to take a soil sample is before spring fertilization or after harvest in the fall or. Do not sample shortly after a lime, fertilizer, or manure application

or when the soil is excessively wet. For lawns, late summer sampling will prepare you for fall fertilization.

 In Union County the office is at 300 North Ave East,  Westfield, NJ, on the 2nd floor. You can also purchase soil test kits by mail.
For more information contact the Union County Garden Helpline
at 908-654-9852.

Happy Gardening, James
 

 

Information from Rutgers Fact Sheet # 797  Soil Testing.
For a  comprehensive list of Rutgers Cooperative Extension publications visit www.rce.rutgers.edu

Repotting Houseplants

Repotting Houseplants

Although the ground is snow covered and spring seems far away, we gain three minutes of sunlight everyday and our houseplants have taken notice. Now is a good time to start planning repotting and spring care so you'll be ready when new growth begins.

Actively growing houseplants need repotting from time to time. Fast-growing plants may need repotting annually, while slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years. Repot only as needed during spring and summer while the plant is actively growing. Do not repot ailing or dormant plants or those beginning to flower.

When new growth starts in the spring, turn the potted plant upside down and remove the plant, if possible. A plant can be removed easily from its pot if the lip of the upside down container is knocked against any solid object. Hold your hand over the soil, straddling the plant between the fore- and middle-fingers, holding back the soil, and gently knock the rootball out of its present container. If roots are in a solid mass around the rootball, the plant needs to be repotted. A plant also needs to be repotted if roots are growing out of the drainage hole, or if the plant requires frequent watering or wilts shortly after watering.

Remove the plant from its pot and gently disturb the root system so that roots are not in a tight rootball. If the roots are too tight to loosen, score the rootball with a knife to loosen them.

Select a pot that is 1 or 2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot. When reusing a pot soak it in 10% bleach water first to discourage disease.

Place a small piece of broken clay pot over the drainage hole to prevent soil from washing out. Do not add a layer of clay pieces or rocks because this actually slows water movement through the pot. I use a used dryer sheet, which keeps the soil in while allowing water to drain out.

Place enough dry potting mix in the bottom of the pot so that the top of the rootball is within 1 inch of the container top. Do not add soil above the original level on the rootball. Fill around the rootball with mix. Do not pack the soil too firm or settle it; gently press the soil with your fingers. Water well so excess water drains out of the pot. Repeat many times, especially if the soil mix contains peat.

A few houseplants such as this Snake plant, (Sansevieria) thrive when they are pot bound. Simply remove the top inch of soil and replace with fresh potting soil every year to keep it happy.

 

*Information excerpted from Clemson University fact sheet, 'repotting houseplants'

Happy Gardening, James

 

Giving Plants As Gifts

GIVING PLANTS AS GIFTS

Evidence exists that giving flowers has been a significant part of our culture since the Middle Ages.  Nowadays, thanks to multiple advancements, including air travel, we can include hundreds of living plants to the list, many of them that flower.

Flowering houseplants make a wonder gift,  brightening the home during the drab winter season.  Most of our flowering plants are from tropical countries around the world.  Sadly, even a short blast of winter cold is enough to send these beauties into a slow death spiral. The trick to success is get the plant safely to where it has to go, so they will thrive though the holiday season or for some plants, years to come.

Orchids and Poinsettia, both popular gifts are very sensitive to drafts and temperature fluctuations. It is important to get your plant home from the shop without damaging it. Cover the plant with plastic or a paper bag, then move it from the store to a warm spot in your car, not the cold  car trunk. Once home remove it immediately from the wrapping (which will now hold the cold)  and check the soil for moisture. When taking your gifts to their lucky recipient repeat the process. This care will avoid your orchids from dropping unopened blooms or your poinsettia from wilting away in just a few days.  If the cashier is busy, they will quickly move you along.  Step to the side and properly  cover the plants before leaving the store.

The final step to good plant giving is supplying proper plant care information. The instructions on the tag are basic and can be easily supplemented.  If you have a good houseplant book make a copy of the plant care page for your gift. If you don't have a book it is easy to find information and print it from the internet.  Now your receiver not only knows sunlight and water requirements, but also knows where your plant comes from and how to propagate it. 

Merry Holidays,   James

Caring for Poinsettia

Tis the season. Garden shops and department stores are full of Poinsettias for sale. It is hard to go anywhere without passing a bright display of this holiday favorite.

With tender loving care this tropical plant, native to Mexico,  will thrive well past 'Three Kings Day', January 6th.

First choose a healthy plant. Drooping leaves can be a sign of problems: exposure to cold, overwatering or lack of sunlight. The small yellow 'flowers' in the center should be bright and closed or partly opened. Dropped yellow 'flowers' indicate over-maturity and should be avoided.

Poinsettia are very sensitive to drafts and temperature fluctuations, therefore it is important to get your plant home from the shop without damaging it. Cover the plant with plastic or a paper bag, then move it from the store to a warm spot in your car, not the trunk. Once home remove it immediately from the wrapping and check the soil for moisture. 

Over-watering is a major problem for Poinsettia causing leaves to droop and roots to rot. Sticking your finger into the top inch of soil is the best way to tell if it needs watering.  If dry to touch, water the plant. If soil sticks to your finger, do not water. The colorful foil doesn't allow water to drain out. Poke a few holes in the bottom to permit drainage.

Poinsettia like bright light. If you have it displayed in a shady area, move it to a bright spot whenever possible, but not direct sunlight.

Keep your new plant safe from children & pets as the leaves are toxic. For more information see Rutgers Cooperative Extension, Fact Sheet #449 "Caring for your Poinsettia" 

Happy Gardening.