Air layering Propagartion

AIR-LAYERING (Propagation)

With the invention of air-layering horticulturist were able to produce young plants
 that would have taken years to grow by seed.

Air-layering is a form of propagation used for centuries by the Chinese.  It was introduced later to America by the Europeans. In the past air-layering was used mainly for outdoor plants, but today it is also used on indoor plants. Air-layering was a hit or miss technique, often drying out or falling apart, but since the invention of plastic bags and wraps the success rate has become very high.

When I first started air-layering  I would unwrap and check the roots. This can damage your tender roots.
Be patient, keep the peat moist and the plants will send out roots. 

Many houseplants such as croton, fiddle-leaf figs, and dracaena often outgrow their space and become leggy. Their large leaves make it hard for them to transfer enough water to their leaves so propagation by many other means is difficult. Instead of pruning them and tossing the tops away, air-layering will turn the tops into healthy new plants and encourage the bottom stalks to force new growth on the parent plant. You can keep both plants or give one to a friend.

I do my air-layering projects around Valentines Day, in mid-February.
As days grow longer the plants begin to revitalize encouraging new root growth. 

Supplies: peat or sphagnum moss*, a knife, rooting hormone powder*, plastic wrap, twist ties, 2 dixie cups (one with water) and a spray bottle for watering.

Technique:

   1.Decide where you want to make your cut. You might need to remove a few leaves to make room for the air-layering pocket.

 2. Put a little rooting powder in the empty cup. This will prevent you from contaminating the 
remaining powder in the jar   

   
3.With the knife gently cut a diagonal cut about 1/2 inches upwards into the branch no more than halfway in. Be slow and steady so you don't cut though and take off the top, a common mishap.

   
4.  Snap the toothpick in half. Dip a piece of toothpick in the water, then dip it into the rooting hormone and then put the toothpick in the cut.
The toothpick will prevent the plant from healing the wound and help insure success.

   
5.Pack the area thoroughly with moist moss. The roots will grow into this. Dust the area with reminding rooting hormone powder. 

For easy clean up put newspaper on your work space or in your
kitchen sink before starting this project. 

   6.Cover the area around the moss with the plastic and fasten both top and bottom tightly with twist ties. Touch the plastic weekly to make sure the moss is wet.

You will need to untwist the top twist tie and  spray water every week. to wet the peat moss.
I put a towel under the plant before to absorb dipping water.

7.When it dries out loosen the top and moisten with a spray bottle, then retie. As the roots develop the moss will dry out faster.

   
8.When the roots have developed usually six to eight weeks later, cut off the newly rooted plant, gently remove plastic and then pot it up. Carefully spread the young roots to encourage healthy growth. Keep the new plant moist until it becomes established then begin to tend to it normally.

Before potting your new plant gently loosen the roots so they will spread out
 in their new environment. You can now care for this cutting as an adult plant.  

  9.The parent plant will force new shoots out in a few weeks. You have now mastered another horticultural skill and watching the young plants grow is rewarding.

Before being the process choose a work area that will be easy to clean and cover it with newspaper.
Gather  all the tools nearby so you don't have to stop the project.

*Sphagnum moss and rooting hormone can be found at  garden centers. Avoid popular brand name mosses that contains plant fertilizer. They will encourage leaf growth rather than root development. 

Happy gardening,

James